1. source of raw material
The source of the raw material is the most basic and the most important of the entire organic cosmetic production process. The ECOCERT standard specifies the processing methods that are allowed to be used and prohibited in the process of obtaining the raw materials. All materials used in organic cosmetics must meet this requirement. It is important to emphasize that organic cosmetics raw materials can not be planted with chemical synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, pesticides, antibiotics and hormones, and products that can not add artificial flavors,Polyglycerol Esters of Fatty Acids pigments, silicone oils, petrochemical sources, and genetic technology.
2. Selection of raw materials
Organic Cosmetic Emulsions and General Cosmetic Emulsion Formulations are similar in composition and generally include emulsifiers, emollients, rheological additives, preservatives, and sensory modifiers.
There are many types of emulsifiers that can be used as emulsions. They are generally classified into three classes, namely, surfactant type emulsifier, polymer type emulsifier and solid particle type emulsifier. Since most of the cosmetic emulsifiers currently used on the market are synthetic or hydrophilic, and these treatments are largely prohibited in the ECOCERT standard, they must be treated with natural emulsifiers or by ECOCERT standards Synthetic Synthetic Synthetic Emulsifier. So in the organic cosmetics emulsion,Polyglycerol Esters of Fatty Acids the choice of emulsifier range is very small. Commonly used in organic cosmetics emulsions are lecithin, fatty acid glycerides, alkyl glycosides and so on.
Lecithin is an indispensable component that exists in biological cells and can be used as a natural emulsifier for organic cosmetic emulsions and is generally suitable for the preparation of O / W emulsions. Lecithin emulsifier can form liquid crystal and liposomes, because the special structure of lecithin, its molecular structure than some commonly used emulsifier complex, can be layered to form a liquid crystal, but also their own curl or closed for Small ball,Polyglycerol Esters of Fatty Acids the formation of vesicles, that is, liposomes. The formation of liquid crystals and liposomes for the stability of the emulsion and moisturizing effect has a very good enhancement. Lecithin has excellent affinity and permeability to the skin, with moisture and enhanced affinity for moisture.
Due to the special molecular structure of lecithin, it is poor acid and alkali resistance, easy hydrolysis, and poor thermal stability and oxidation resistance, it is easy to change color, generally rarely used as a single emulsifier in the product.
2.1.2 fatty acid glycerides
According to the different number of glycerol polymerization can be divided into fatty acid monoglyceride (commonly known as monoglyceride) and fatty acid polyglyceryl ester. The fatty acid glyceride emulsifier is a class of excellent emulsifiers which are obtained by direct esterification of glycerol or polyglycerol and fatty acids, and the processes involved are permitted by the ECOCERT standard. Glyceryl ester emulsifier in acid, alkaline and neutral environment are very stable, high temperature performance, high salt content also has a good emulsifying performance, and colorless, tasteless, less prone to hydrolysis, the product Appearance,Polyglycerol Esters of Fatty Acids smell no adverse effects, there is a good synergies. Widely used in organic cosmetics. Two or more polyglycerol fatty acid esters used in combination will produce better results. Human body intake of fat in the body under the action of enzymes can be converted to monoglyceride, visible monoglyceride is the intermediate product of human metabolism, the ADI value (daily allowable intake) without any restrictions, included in GRAS ( Generally recognized as safe) products. The higher the degree of polymerization of polyglycerol, the shorter the fatty acid carbon chain, the lower the degree of esterification, the stronger the hydrophilicity of polyglycerol ester, the preparation of O / W type emulsion, and the preparation of W / O type emulsion The
2.1.3 alkyl glycosides
Alkyl glycosides, referred to as APG, derived from natural plants, is a more comprehensive performance of the new non-ionic surfactants, both common nonionic and anionic surfactants. With high surface activity, good ecological safety and compatibility, is internationally recognized as the preferred "green" functional surfactant. As the emulsifier APG hydrophobic end is generally long chain alkane, such emulsifier emulsifying ability, can form a liquid crystal structure, the preparation of the paste is stable, soft and moist,Polyglycerol Esters of Fatty Acids both moisturizing performance.
However, these emulsifiers are somewhat flawed with respect to other non-organic emulsifiers, but with the advent of new cosmetic ingredients, there will be better emulsifiers that can be used in organic cosmetic emulsions.
2.2 Emollient grease
Emollient oil as an essential component of the emulsion, the skin surface can form a layer of hydrophobic film, giving the skin soft, smooth and gloss, and can prevent the invasion of foreign harmful substances. According to the ECOCERT standard, the oils used in organic cosmetic emulsions can be used depending on the source,Polyglycerol Esters of Fatty Acids which can be used in both vegetable and animal sources. Petrochemical sources such as mineral oil (petrolatum, paraffin wax, ground wax) and pure chemical synthetic oils such as dimethyl silicone oil in the ECOCERT standard prohibit the use of.
2.2.1 Plant origin
ECOCERT provides that plant raw materials are allowed to use only if they are produced and harvested in their natural habitats without causing environmental degradation and ecosystem imbalances and that they are not endangered. Raw materials must also be obtained by the physical methods allowed in Table 1 during the acquisition process. Vegetables are mainly derived from the fruits and seeds of plants, but also from the roots of plants, stems, leaves and so on. Commonly used plant oils are olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, tallow fruit oil, higher fatty acids, higher fatty alcohols and fatty acid triglycerides. Natural vegetable oil is the main drawback is easy to oxidize instability, and vitamin E is a natural antioxidant, used in cosmetics can effectively prevent the oxidation of vegetable oil deterioration, with the plant extraction technology, there will be more and better natural plants Grease applied to organic cosmetics.
2.2.2 Animal sources
The ECOCERT standard states that only raw materials derived from animals but not their own components can be used in organic cosmetics and that their source species are not national or international protected species or endangered species. Raw materials must also be obtained by the physical methods allowed in Table 1 during the acquisition process. Commonly used animal sources of oil is relatively small, mainly beeswax and lanolin.
2.3 Rheology modifier
Rheology regulators play an important role in the emulsion, because it has a stable emulsion, adjust the skin feel and appearance, thickening suspension and so on,Polyglycerol Esters of Fatty Acids making the product indispensable. In cosmetic emulsions, a product formulation is usually formulated by one or more rheological modifiers to achieve the purpose of increasing and improving the appearance and stability of the cosmetic. The rheological modifiers used in organic cosmetics are divided into two categories: plant and inorganic minerals.
2.3.1 Plant origin
Most of the rheology regulators of plant origin are composed of a straight chain skeleton or branched chain polysaccharide, which is extracted from the trees or shells, seeds, leaves or stems by extraction or refining such as xanthan gum, gum arabic, Guar gum and carrageenan.
2.3.2 Inorganic minerals
Inorganic water-soluble minerals mainly include in the water or water - oil system can be dispersed to form colloids or gels of natural silicate. The most common is magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum), in addition to bentonite, lithium montmorillonite and so on. They have a very good suspension function, rheological properties of excellent, high temperature tolerance, the tolerance of the electrolyte is also high. Such rheological modifiers are insoluble in water and are present in water as a "carton-spaced" sol. They are effective in suspending and stabilizing the emulsion and, as well as most cosmetic ingredients, to impart smooth, non-stick , Not greasy and good looking.
Because of the raw materials in cosmetics, additives contain a lot of nutrients and water, which for the growth of microorganisms to provide a good growth and reproduction conditions, especially organic cosmetics, raw materials are generally derived from natural, relative to other non-organic cosmetics More susceptible to microbial contamination. By the microbial contamination of the cosmetics will be deteriorated, any cosmetics need to add preservatives to prevent the growth of microorganisms within the product or to prevent the reaction of microorganisms with the product growth, extend the shelf life of the product to ensure product safety,Polyglycerol Esters of Fatty Acids Consumers are exposed to potential infections due to the use of microbial contaminated products.
Organic cosmetics emulsion preservative is a difficult problem, some synthetic commonly used preservatives such as nipagin ester series, imidazolidinyl ureas, methyl isothiazolinones and so on due to the environment or the body itself has been the harm Prohibited for use in organic cosmetics. There are several types of substances that are currently used in the organic cosmetic emulsions. (1) Organic acids and salts thereof, such as benzoic acid and its salts, sorbic acid and its salts, Yang acid and anisic acid, its anti-corrosion mechanism is to break the cell industry pH balance, thereby inhibiting the enzyme activity, and ultimately lead to microbial death, such preservatives must be in a specific pH conditions to play a preservative effect. (2) polyols, mainly from natural plants. Such substances can destroy the microbial cell membrane, followed by the formation of vesicles to play an antibacterial effect, the longer the carbon chain, the better the antibacterial effect, but the irritation will be slightly increased, commonly used is 1,3-propanediol, (Corn source). These substances are usually used as a humectant,Polyglycerol Esters of Fatty Acids which itself does not belong to the scope of preservatives, but with anti-corrosion effect, can be used in organic cosmetics emulsion. (3) amphiphilic substances, such as glycerol fatty acid esters and sorbitan fatty acid esters, fatty acids for C8-C10 the best anti-corrosion effect, because these substances similar to the structure of the emulsifier, with amphiphilic, with the cell membrane lipid Exchange, destruction of microbial cell membrane, so as to achieve the effect of anti-corrosion, such ingredients in the product does not consume and has been active, can achieve long-term effective anti-corrosion effect.